K-5|FUJI X-S1|Sigma 10-20/3,5 HSM|Sigma 50-500 OS|Samyang 24/1,4|Metz 58 AF-2|O-GPS1|Sigma 18-250 HSM Macro|manu chao
Sicor 23/3,5|Porst 135/2.8| Zenitar K-2/50|gogol bordello
www.kamerom.pl
k-5+Pentax/Tamron 18>200
Oglądanie zdjęć na monitorze jest jak jazda na rowerze stacjonarnym-ogranicza pole widzenia.
andybond napisał/a:zamach, według ciebie ile litrów wody zbierze się na sprzęcie? ..
K-5|FUJI X-S1|Sigma 10-20/3,5 HSM|Sigma 50-500 OS|Samyang 24/1,4|Metz 58 AF-2|O-GPS1|Sigma 18-250 HSM Macro|manu chao
Sicor 23/3,5|Porst 135/2.8| Zenitar K-2/50|gogol bordello
www.kamerom.pl
K-5IIs K-7 i git kit, 50A 1,7, M 135 3,5, DA 1:2,4 35 AL, Vivitar 28mm 1:2,8 , DFA 100mm F 2,8 WR, DA 1:4 15 ED AL, DA 1:2,4 70,DA1:1,8 50mm ,
http://mare7.web-album.org/,http://idzi-derek.flog.pl/
MX, ME i same stare manuale.
Polecam www.tomaszmichalski.com
idzi napisał/a:Tak z czystej ciekawości to ktoś sprawdził jaką temperature rejestruje aparat po kilku godzinach robienia zdjęć na mrozie. ..
K-5|FUJI X-S1|Sigma 10-20/3,5 HSM|Sigma 50-500 OS|Samyang 24/1,4|Metz 58 AF-2|O-GPS1|Sigma 18-250 HSM Macro|manu chao
Sicor 23/3,5|Porst 135/2.8| Zenitar K-2/50|gogol bordello
www.kamerom.pl
galam napisał/a:
-świeżo naładowane eneloopy po tym czasie pokazały zero
Pozdrawiam
Tomek B.
K-3, K-r, Practica MTL3 i trochę szkła
K-5, K20D kit WR, F 28/2.8, FA 35/2 AL, FA 50/1.4, K 55/1.8, DA 55-300, DA 70/2.4 Ltd, M 85/2, A 100/2.8, A 100/4 macro, K 150/4, F * 300/4.5, CZ Planar T* 50/1.7, Porst 55/1.4(M42), Pentacon 50/1.8(M42) , Pentacon 100/2.8(M42)
Makler napisał/a:na Połoninie Caryńskiej
Makler napisał/a:Pod drzwiami schroniska
Pozdrawiam
6x6 - 24x36 - FF - APS-C - malutki dron
Makler napisał/a:
Co do worka to myślę że ma to jak najbardziej sens, lecz musi być 100% szczelny. Jakiś duży, grubszy i najlepiej nowy worek strunowy myślę że by się sprawdził.
Kapeć i ze dwa słoiki
CytatTo rzeczywiście dziwne. Mam na balkonie nadajnik stacji pogodowej zasilany dwoma eneloopami AAA. Chodzi bez problemu przy aktualnych mrozach, choć oczywiście ze względu na "zmniejszoną pojemność" odstępy między ładowaniami są mniejsze (powiedzmy 2-3 tygodnie -w zeszły roku oczywiście ). A nowe eneloopy XX wg Sanyo mają działać przy -20, czyli spodziewam się, że bez problemu wytrzymają -25-30.
K-x, DA 21/3.2 Limited, DA 40/2.8 Limited
No tak nie dodałem że po powrocie do schroniska (do Koliby).plwk napisał/a:Nie bardzo mi się to komponuje
K-5, K20D kit WR, F 28/2.8, FA 35/2 AL, FA 50/1.4, K 55/1.8, DA 55-300, DA 70/2.4 Ltd, M 85/2, A 100/2.8, A 100/4 macro, K 150/4, F * 300/4.5, CZ Planar T* 50/1.7, Porst 55/1.4(M42), Pentacon 50/1.8(M42) , Pentacon 100/2.8(M42)
K-5IIs K-7 i git kit, 50A 1,7, M 135 3,5, DA 1:2,4 35 AL, Vivitar 28mm 1:2,8 , DFA 100mm F 2,8 WR, DA 1:4 15 ED AL, DA 1:2,4 70,DA1:1,8 50mm ,
http://mare7.web-album.org/,http://idzi-derek.flog.pl/
Pozdrawiam
6x6 - 24x36 - FF - APS-C - malutki dron
plwk napisał/a:w jednej K-5 górny wyświetlacz przestał wyświetlać niektóre fragmenty
Pozdrawiam
Krzysiek
ME-F; Z-20; K-1
AF 35-70/2.8; DA 10-17/3.5-4.5; FA 24-70mm f/2,8 ED SDM; FA PZ 28-105/4-5.6; T 70-200/2.8; FA 80-320/4.5-5.6; FA 31/1.8; Helios 85/1.5; D-FA 100mm f/2.8 macro
AF-540FGZ, AF160, Winder ME-II
Pentax K-5 , K-R , DA 18-135 mm f/3.5-5.6 AL , DA 55-300 mm f/4.0-5.8 ED , Sigma 10-20 mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM, 18-55 mm WR , FA 43/1.9 Limited, FA 77/1.8 Limited, Metz 58 AF2
andybond napisał/a:A nawet jeżeli działa jedynie placebo,to jest ono mniej szkodliwe jak foliowanie sprzętu. Przypominają mi się czasy,gdy ludziska za ciężkie pieniądze kupowali "satelity" i szczelnie owijali konwertery workami foliowymi.Nie jeden w ten sposób "zagłaskał swego kota" na śmierć i musiał zmieniać "tubkę"
Cytat
The Cold
the challenges associated with shooting in the cold are unique and demand the same attention as shooting in the heat. There are three main concerns:
making sure you keep working, making sure your cameras keep working, and making sure the images look great. at what point you seize up in the cold and stop functioning altogether is a personal thing. You can’t work or think if you’re not warm, but if you’re so bundled up that you lose your mobility, it becomes equally impossible. the secret is dressing in layers. start with good polypro or expedition–weight underwear, bothtops and bottoms. then, good layers of fleece and possibly a down parka or Gore-tex shell to cap it off. think in layers, and buy quality. Make sure your feet are in liners, heavy wool or fleece socks, and good, insulated, waterproof boots. be sure you’ve got gloves that allow you to work without removing them. on the warmer days I wear LowePro shooting gloves and swear by them. When the temperatures drop in early morning and late afternoon, I wear a pair of Patagonia ice-climbing gloves; they are very warm but also pretty agile, considering how warm they are. Lastly, wear a hat, sunglasses and a good sunscreen if you’re in the snow and sun. Just because it is cold doesn’t mean you won’t burn. Your digital camera is vulnerable in a couple places, creating three possible challenges: drained batteries, frozen lubricants, and condensation. battery life can be extended by keeping the camera warm and inside your jacket, but if you’re shooting a lot you can only do this for so long. eventually, you’ll need some spare batteries. I carry my spares in an inside pocket when possible or in a small pouch with an activated pocket-warmer inside to keep them warm. heat Factories (or similar brand) hand warmers are excellent for tossing into a bag to keep things warm; a couple extras don’t hurt to keep the fingers warm either. as for the coldest extremes and the possibility of lubricants freezing, the best thing you can do is check your camera’s manual for the operating parameters and stay within them. If you’re really hard-core and think you can shoot in temps colder than the documented operating range of your camera, then you can get the body polar-oiled at an authorized service center. The other inconvenience and danger is the movement from cold environments into hot ones, which causes condensation—at best, this just means you need to wait until the camera warms up and you can see through the lens again; at worst, the moisture causes mold in your lenses or shorts out the electronics. Condensation is avoidable if you give it some forethought. the best action is simply leaving the camera in the cold. If you can safely leave it in a camera bag or stormCase out in the cold, you’ll avoid having the cold body and lens meeting the hot air and condensing. If you must go inside, put the camera in a kitchen garbage bag and seal it after pushing all the air out. now tuck it into your camera bag and let it warm up before you remove it. the bag will also prevent any condensation you’d otherwise face from freezing once you head back out into the cold. adding a small silica desiccant packet to the bag doesn’t hurt either. If you shoot with two cameras and you need to be shooting both in and out of the cold a lot, consider using one as a “cold body” and the other as a “warm body.” I used this approach on an assignment in Mongolia one February and it worked really well. one body with my 80-200mm f/2.8 stayed in a bag outside the door of the family yurt, and one got deposited inside, with a wider or faster lens for shooting inside. no in-and-out fogging my lenses, and no down time. Cold weather and snow can create some great conditions for spectacular image-making, and with a little preparation there’s no reason you shouldn’t be out there creating some unforgettable photographs.
badworm napisał/a:A David duChemin w swoim eBooku "Travel of Art" na temat fotografowania w zimnie pisze tak:
120 | 135 | APS-C
C330s 67 45 75 105 165 | MXx2 MES (nie działa) MZ-5n (nie działa) 28 50 35 43 (nie działa) 50 | GRII K-5 21
JORGE.MARTINEZ@PL | Jeden Aparat 7.0 | Instagram
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